The eel parties of Skåne

One of my swedish friends asked why I hadn't yet written about the famous eel feasts - "ålagille" - of southern Sweden. Good question. Actually I have yet to attend my first eel party, and therefore haven't been able to write about this eagerly awaited experience. But as eel parties are pretty "exclusive", I have decided that they deserve a mention.

As "Surströmming" is to the people of the north, so are eels blessed to the southerners of Sweden. Their time comes in the autumn, when the evening light of summer diminishes into shorter days. It's in this darkness - known as "eel darkness" (ålamörkret)- that these creatures are unable to see the fisherman's nets and so trapped in large quantities during their struggle to migrate towards the Sargasso Sea. And thus the season of eel parties begins.

Right now, demand for eel meat is high throughout the world, and as it is feared that the number of eels are declining, these tasty creatures have become somewhat of a delicacy.

At a typical eel party, you will be offered grand selection of different types of eel, all prepared in various ways. Smoked, grilled or stuffed, I'm told they are hard to resist. Whether or not your stomach is prepared is another matter. I have heard that if there are a large quantity of eels on offer, then there must be an even larger quantity of schnapps available to wash them all down.

And I daresay that in true Scandinavian style, the Swedes probably have a special song about this custom that must be sung aloud prior to the downing of a glass of schnapps.

Traditionally, to finish off the evening, there must be one person who is proclaimed the "Eel King". That's right, a golden crown will adorn the head of the one who is able to lift the most live eels at one time from a barrel.

And the Swedes think this is fun?

Well, you'll have to excuse me if I don't rush to the front of the queue to try this party game when I'm hopefully, invited to my first eel party this coming Fall.